| The B.D.S. Book of Driving - published in 1981 - has the following advice on what to wear :
DRESS
Clothes are, of course, a matter of personal preference, but there are one or two basic requirements for both comfort and efficiency when driving. For both sexes, it is essential always to wear, and use, the following:-
1. A Hat for not only does this keep the hair under control - which is necessary under windy conditions, but it also makes for a neat appearance.
2. Gloves. These provide extra grip on the reins as well as protection for the hands against cold and blisters. They should not, however, be either too tight or too small or they will prove uncomfortable and may even restrict the blood supply. Gloves should be made of brown leather in a thickness to suit the wearer, while an extra pair, made of string, or wool, should be carried for use in wet weather.
3. An Apron or Rug worn over the knees not only looks neat, but it protects clothing from dirt off the reins, as well as loose hair shed by the horses. Aprons can be made from thick box-cloth (or a similar material) in either a dark colour - to match the paint-work of the vehicle, or else in the light shade of fawn (traditionally known as "drab") which is often used for the upholstery and cushions of carriages. For summer, aprons and rugs can be made of linen in a small check design, with the edges bound in matching braid. As an extra embellishment, aprons and rugs may be decorated by a monogram, or a family crest, embroidered either at the Centre top, or else across the right-hand corner, but these should always be as small as possible. In the old days, fur-lined rugs were often used - particularly for use with sleighs, while for wet weather, rubberised mackintosh rugs were manufactured. Today, these can be made of plastic material.
When driving on informal occasions, casual, or country outfits may be worn, but when attending a show, extra effort should be taken to select clothes in conjunction with the turnout, but any form of period costume, i.e. bonnets and parasols, or fancy dress should be avoided. A few pointers on correct attire are therefore listed:-
GENTLEMEN
(a) Top Hats. Either the black silk variety, or those made of pale grey felt (for summer use) were almost universally worn in the old days, but these are now only necessary when driving four-in-hands to coaches (both private and road varieties); or else unicorns or pairs to vehicles such as phaetons, etc., but although they may also be worn with smaller turnouts such as gigs and dog-carts on smart occasions, or at large shows, they should not be worn when driving varnished, or rustic-looking vehicles.
(b) Bowler Hats are universally the correct head-gear when driving tandems, pairs, singles, to gigs, dog-carts, ralli-cars, or wagonettes, and can be made in either black, brown, or grey felt.
(c) Soft Felt Hats may be worn when driving in the country, or for rustic vehicles such as floats, varnished dog-carts, etc.
(d) Suits. When driving a smart vehicle, a plain, or pin-striped suit may be worn, but for rustic vehicles, a tweed or checked suit, or else a tweed hacking jacket worn over plain, or cavalry twill trousers will look correct.
A buttonhole, made from a single carnation, or small bunch of cornflowers, will also add to the appearance of the turnout - particularly if the colour tones in with the paintwork of the vehicle. Cornflowers are by tradition the flowers worn by members of the Coaching Club.
(e) Gloves made of brown leather, chamois leather, or else wool or string, are correct.
LADIES
(a) Hats should be small and close-fitting to prevent their being blown off in high winds, and they should not have floppy brims which might impede eyesight. The colour of the hat should also be considered in relation to the vehicle - a bright red hat worn with yellow wheels (or vice versa) would give a very garish appearance for instance.
(b) Costume. Tailored clothes took best when driving, and the colour should again either tone with, or else match the vehicle. Trouser suits may be worn, but the apron, or rug, should be sufficiently large to cover the legs.
(c) Shoes should be flat-heeled and preferably with rubber soles, as these will provide extra grip when braced against the footboard, and will not scratch the paintwork.
GROOMS (Male)
Full livery, i.e. top hat, redingote-style coat, white breeches and top boots need only be worn when accompanying private coaches, (or drags), smart phaetons, and other well turned-out vehicles when attending big shows, or on particularly smart occasions. (Technically, cockles should never be worn in the top hats of grooms unless their employers are entitled to the bearing of arms. This includes all male members of the Armed Forces, and the aristocracy, from the son of a Knight upwards.)
For all other turnouts, and upon lesser occasions, a black bowler hat and dark suit is correct, while for rustic vehicles such as dog-carts, wagonettes, or breaks, stable dress, consisting of a tweed suit, or a check jacket worn over fawn trousers, topped by either a brown, or black bowler hat will look right.
Brown leather gloves should also be worn by grooms, but no rugs or aprons should cover their knees - or they may be impeded when jumping out in an emergency.
GROOMS (Female)
Although girl grooms have, and do upon occasion, wear full livery when accompanying private coaches, etc., it is more usual for them to wear a riding jacket made in either navy blue or black, or else a tweed hacking jacket, worn over either jodhpurs
or trousers in light fawn colour.
Head-gear can be either bowler hats, or else velvet caps, and it is essential that these are not worn either on the back of the head, nor tilted rakishly over one eye, but should be placed absolutely squarely upon the head, and with the hair underneath neatly done, or in a hair-net.
Like their male counterparts, girl grooms should wear brown leather gloves, and should not cover their knees with aprons or rugs.
PASSENGERS
Everyone accompanying a driver with his turnout should pay him the compliment of considering the colour and took of their outfits, as these will obviously either add to, or detract from, the general effect.
"Make the Most of Carriage Driving" - Vivian & Richard Ellis - includes the following advice on hats :
There are a few traditional rules which it is nice to observe, such as a grey top hat for a gentlemen driving his own turnout by day, but black if driving for someone else or at an evening function.
For the National and larger County Shows and events, it is correct for a gentleman driving a team, pair or tandem to wear a top hat, as he should do when driving a smart Gig to a stepping horse. At other times, correct dress is either a black, brown or grey bowler worn with a suit.....
For the modern exercise cart classes at small shows, a gentleman may feel overdressed wearing a bowler, in which case a country hat of the trilby variety may be preferred, or even a nice panama for a hot, bright day.
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